Yo Sushi belongs to the class of American sushi restaurant that specializes in “crazy rolls” — giant, mayonnaise-laden, everything-but-the-kitchen-sink flavor bombs with names like “Angry Lion King” and “Japanese Lasagna.” Where the restaurant sets itself apart from other cheap, fast-food sushi joints is in the quality of the fish — about as good as what you’ll find in your typical mid-tier sit-down sushi spot — and in the balance of flavors, despite the liberal deployment of various sweet and spicy sauces. The biggest surprise was how good the simpler, more traditional Japanese dishes were: an impeccably-grilled salmon collar and a generous chirashi rice bowl for less than $15. Meanwhile, the old Zaki Kabob space has been redone as a kaleidoscope of bright yellows, oranges, and greens — of lucky-cat bobbleheads, Doraemon illustrations, and K-pop music videos.

— Luke Tsai


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