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Uncle Willie Thomas produces mega-smoky Texas-style barbecue in barrel grills he fashioned himself, slathering on a marinade he calls “bugga juice.” With a mesquite-and-hickory aura that sticks in your nose like creosote, the chicken is mandatory. Ribs and links are equally smokalicious, but the brisket is a letdown for those who like their barbecue tender enough to shred with a plastic fork. The made-from-scratch sides are nice, but skip the so-so fried fish.

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