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Despite the fact that the local food cognoscenti rarely mention it, Trattoria La Siciliana remains wildly popular sixteen years after it first opened. The secret, in part, is garlic — tons of it, nowhere more prominent than in the intense olio della mamma, the complimentary dipping oil that starts your meal. Clearly, this is a restaurant that aims to bowl you over, to sock you in the face with flavor. And if you order wisely — sticking mostly to seafood dishes and Sicilian specialties — it’s likely you’ll be won over. Highlights include a seasonal heirloom-tomato salad that’s amped up with olives, capers, and anchovy fillets; the bucatini chi finucchiede, whose saffron- and currant-based sauce speaks to Sicily’s Moorish influence; and, most luxurious of all, the tutto mare linguine with its insanely addictive lobster-infused fresh tomato sauce.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Daily 5-10 p.m.

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Price: $$-$$$

Payment Type: Cash only

Family-style service encouraged for larger parties.

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