After an extensive five-month renovation, the granddaddy of all tiki bars has adopted a more casual 21st-century attitude, with a larger lounge area, more totems and less starched napery, and a lighter, spicier menu. Some of the food is still deep-fried and heavily sauced, but classics like the ham and Gruyere Cheese Bings and the oyster-spinach Bongo Bongo Soup continue to delight. Best of all, though, are the dazzling tropical cocktails served in a variety of bowls and flagons, especially the sweet, potent 1944 Mai Tai (a house original).

— Matthew Stafford

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