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The wine bar as we knew it (big balloon glasses swirling inky Malbecs, walls painted burgundy red, goat cheese fondue) is essentially dead. And while College Avenue’s Toast doesn’t exactly push the envelope, it does manage to feel aligned with some new expression of the wine bar. It’s partly the space, with its Eames chairs and steely-blue walls, and partly the wine list peppered with some obscure varietals. Order the simplest things on the menu and Toast becomes a place you can drink to.

— John Birdsall

Hours: Tue.-Thu. 3-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. noon-11 p.m.; Sun. noon-9 p.m.; Mon. closed.

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Payment Type: Cash, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

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