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The former Mint Leaf’s location next door to Chez Panisse gave owner Deepak Aggarwal an admiration for the Bay Area’s time-honored everything-local-and-organic approach, though he missed the spices that are an Indian chef’s stock in trade. So when he reopened the restaurant as Tigerlily, Aggarwal’s goal was to do California cuisine, but to “put some flavor into it.” Chef Joel Lamica’s “Indo-Asian” fusion cooking by and large does just that, though you shouldn’t expect traditional Indian flavors. Instead, this is prettily plated modern California cuisine: fry bread topped with roasted chilies and black sesame seeds, garam masala-spiced lamb burgers, and turmeric-spiked hollandaise. Your best bet? The fried chicken with tikka masala sauce — available as a dinner entrée or in an inspired brunch-time take on chicken and waffles — is pretty much perfect.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Mon., Wed.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 4 p.m.-midnight; Sat. 11 a.m.-midnight; Sun. 11 a.m.-8 p.m.

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Price: $$$-$$$$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

Reservations only accepted for the 5:30-6:30 time slot, or for parties of eight or more. Kitchen closes at 10:30 p.m. every day except Sunday.

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