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Although the menu features a smattering of North African and Middle Eastern flavors to keep things interesting, nothing is meant to push the envelope or to be overtly esoteric. Simply put, The Advocate serves straightforward California cuisine, but does it better than all but a handful of East Bay restaurants. Highlights include a selection of wood-grilled flatbreads, custardy chickpea “fries” infused with the juices and chopped-up flesh of cooked clams, and a thick slab of levain toast that was topped with a luxurious smear of whipped chicken-liver terrine. Like its sister restaurant Comal, The Advocate features a state-of-the-art noise-dampening system, a handsome dining room, and a selection of carefully crafted cocktails. All of which is to say, this is an exceedingly pleasant place to spend an evening.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Tue.–Thu 5:30–9:30 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 5:30-10:30 p.m., Sun. 5:30–9:30 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 10:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m.

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Price: $$$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

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