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Husband-and-wife owners Loc Nguyen and Leuksan Sipaseuth closed their twenty-year-old Laotian market in early 2011 to focus on their restaurant, where Sipaseuth cooks a classic list of home-style dishes from her native Vientiane, capital of Laos. That includes mok pla — a dill- and lemongrass-scented catfish loaf steamed in banana leaf — served with the roasted tomato and chile relish called jaew maak len, one of the brightest dishes in the East Bay. Also not to be missed: Sipaseuth’s nicely balanced green papaya salad. You can choose how many chiles she pounds up with it. Thrill seekers, the magic number is six, though three still provide a respectable burn.

— John Birdsall

Hours: Tue.-Sun. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.; Mon. closed

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