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When Denise Huynh bought this longstanding Vietnamese restaurant, she convinced her mom to take over the kitchen and make her favorite childhood dishes. A slow but dramatic transformation began, and now, Tay Ho offers a contemporary aesthetic, full bar, and range of hard-to-find, regional specialties. The best stem from Huynh’s own family roots in Hue, which is famed for Vietnam’s royal cuisine, and the Mekong Delta, an area rich with coconut trees. Northern Vietnamese favorites are also popular, such as bánh cuốn, delicate rice noodle rolls. They’re so labor intensive that Tay Ho only serves them at lunch.

— Janelle Bitker

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