If you’re the kind of taco eater who stays tapped into which dining establishments Oakland’s Mexican population holds in highest regard, you might eventually find yourself standing in front of this low-slung green building. Congratulations. You’ve hit the mother lode. This no-frills Fruitvale district taqueria excels at what Americans usually refer to as the offal cuts: as good a cabeza, lengua, or tripa as you’ll ever encounter. The tacos are wonderfully straightforward — just meat that’s cooked and seasoned perfectly, garnished with only a light scattering of chopped onions and cilantro. That said, you would be wise to take advantage of the “fixings” bar, which features an array of exceedingly fresh-tasting salsas, including a chunky, vaguely guacamole-like green salsa that will set your mouth ablaze.

— Luke Tsai


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