Owned by the same folks who made Doña Tomás a success, Tacubaya brings the authentic taqueria experience to yupscale Fourth Street. Well, not quite authentic — there’s no grease on the tables, and the plates are too pretty (and pricey). The chef’s subtlety is lost on the tacos and tortas, which could pack more heat. But as dishes such as kabocha squash tamales with salsa rojo and feather-light chile relleno demonstrate, the more showy Tacubaya’s food gets, the better it is.

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