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No food-focused visit to The Town would be complete without at least one Lao meal, and this under-the-radar spot in the San Antonio district is as good a place as any to get acquainted with the often-spicy, umami-rich cuisine. Highlights include the funky but delicately balanced Lao-style papaya salad, several soul-warming soupy noodle dishes, and one of the crunchiest versions of nam kao (crispy rice ball salad) you'll find in Oakland. Wash down any spicy dishes you order with a frosty mug of Beer Lao, king of the crisp Southeast Asian lagers.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Daily 11 a.m.–3 p.m., 5–9 p.m.

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Price: $-$$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

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