This Laurel district breakfast-and-lunch spot aims to reimagine the old-fashioned American diner, but to update those classics with a sensibility informed by chef Andrew Vennari’s stints at high-end California-inflected restaurants and the seasonal, sustainable ethos that comes along with that. So, Vennari cures and smokes the bacon and produces several different kinds of sausages in-house, the eggs are pasture-raised, and the bulk of the produce is of the handpicked-at-the-farmers’-market variety. Still, the food never strays too far from the classic diner playbook of omelets, sausage links, and hot coffee — but that kind of simple food can be a beautiful thing in the hands of a skilled chef. Highlights include intensely buttery biscuits, airy-light waffles, huevos rancheros prettied up with a veritable veggie rainbow, and a daily selection of pastries that would be the envy of any number of artisanal bakeries.

— Luke Tsai

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