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Formerly called La Cenaduria de Ana Rosa, this Jaliscan-style restaurant’s stock-in-trade is homey flavors and fresh meats. Make sure to get the quarter-inch-thick corn tortillas that are made-to-order, and arrive scorching hot to the table. The birria en su jugo (a stew spiked with lime and bright-red with chile) is rich and delicious, with tender pieces of goat that has been grilled and then braised. Homemade chips and salsa, plus a side of refried beans, come gratis and go well with the enduringly popular queso fundido con chorizo, a bowl of melted cheese topped with crispy-chewy-salty bits of sausage.

— Cynthia Salaysay

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