The Bay Area is home to dozens of self-described Asian-fusion restaurants, where you never know what kind of filling a dumpling might be hiding, and where kimchi might find its way onto a taco. But only one restaurant purports to serve what chef Mohamed Aboghanem calls “Arabic fusion” cuisine. That honor goes to Saha, which Aboghanem recently moved from its old San Francisco digs to Berkeley. Aboghanem applies the classical French techniques of his culinary-school training to the flavors and ingredients of the Middle East. One of his favorite tricks is to re-engineer traditional Middle Eastern pastries, turning sweets into unexpectedly delectable savories.


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