Emeryville’s reigning pizza champ is a hybrid, merging the New York-style slice aspirations of Brooklyn-born Jonas Bernstein with a Cal-cuisine approach to ingredients. The basics don’t quite hold up, with the thin crust on the margherita not able to withstand the thick coating of sauce. But once the cooks start working their magic on the combos, look out. The Calabrian pizza is a can’t-miss, with a house-made Italian sausage (ground with paprika, fennel, and Beeler pork shoulder); Gaeta olives (striking, though milder than a Kalamata); potent Calabrian chilies; and a sprinkling of toasted fennel seeds.

— Jesse Hirsch

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