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To get to POP Sandwich, a pop-up deli in Uptown Oakland, you have to walk through the Chez Mado convenience store — past the shop’s eclectic inventory of candy, cell phone accessories, and electronic cigarettes. But this is Oakland, city of hidden culinary delights, so of course the deli section in back of a vape store is where fine-dining vet Ian De Leoz would set up shop. POP’s sandwiches are all loosely banh mi-inspired — topped with lightly pickled carrots and onions and served on crusty baguettes that De Leoz buys from a Vietnamese bakery in East Oakland. One features fork-tender pork adobo (his mother’s recipe) and crispy fried onions; another in composed of moist mahimahi confit, chopped cornichons, and whole-grain mustard. Perhaps best of all is the sandwich that was De Leoz’s original inspiration — a mind-bending take on an egg and cheese with a broken-yolk fried egg, Laughing Cow cheese, and sambal aioli. Forget the humble surroundings: You won’t find many better sandwiches in town.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Mon.-Wed. 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Thu.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-5:30 p.m.

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Price: $

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

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