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In the Bay Area, Brazilian food is more or less synonymous with all-you-can-eat steakhouses. But Brazil’s culinary narrative is actually far more complicated, informed by waves of migration. At last, we get a sense of that melting pot at Paulista, an all-day cafe, restaurant, and beer bar that focuses on the sort of casual fare Brazilians eat every day. That means creamy acai bowls, fried street snacks, and comforting stews, including some dishes you’d be hard-pressed to find anywhere else in the East Bay. Owners Alex Yamamoto, who was born in Brazil, and Jesse Madway live in the neighborhood and are constant presences at their restaurant.

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