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At Pathos, one wall is lined with faux-ancient ceramic vases in display cubbies; the other is occupied by a modern-looking bar. That blend of the classical and the contemporary translates to the menu as well, where traditional Greek recipes (passed down from chef Nick Eftimiou’s grandmother) are presented with new shine. Many of the best dishes use simple cooking techniques to highlight fresh, high-quality seafood: a grilled octopus tentacle presented whole, adorned only with capers that fit perfectly into the suction cups, or piping-hot fried smelts you can pop in your mouth like French fries. Highlights among the entrées include the wood-oven-roasted Mediterranean seabass and an elegantly plated moussaka, which illustrates the restaurant’s modern, refined sensibility: a layer of roasted eggplant topped with seasoned ground lamb and a hearty béchamel, made with Greek yogurt for a lighter, smoother texture.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Tue.-Sun. 5:30-10 p.m.

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Price: $$$

Produce is certified-organic; meat and seafood are sustainably sourced.

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