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Even if you live on the Island, you’re forgiven if you’ve never heard of Pacific Lighthouse. It’s in Marina Village, a section of town full of anonymous business parks and zero foot traffic. Once you pull in, you realize the location is special. It’s set right on the estuary, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out on the water, a line of yachts, and the downtown Oakland skyline. If Pacific Lighthouse was cramped and dark, though, it’d still earn our pick for dim sum. Just about everything we tried was on par with or far better than competitors — albeit, at a slightly higher price point. Don’t leave without the “French style” char siu bao.

— Janelle Bitker

Hours: Sun.–Thu. 10 a.m.–3 p.m., 5–9:30 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 10 a.m.–3 p.m., 5–10 p.m.

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