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At this sophisticated neighborhood restaurant, chef-owner Nilgun Boyar prepares a wide array of Mediterranean dishes — Turkish, Greek, Moroccan, French, Lebanese, and Italian traditions are all represented on the extensive menu. The best meals, though, reflect Boyar’s Turkish and Greek roots, such as the restaurant’s namesake moussaka starring lamb layered with roasted eggplant and creamy béchamel. Despite the prevalence of stews, kebabs, and comfort food, there’s a clear refinement to Boyar’s approach. Unsurprisingly, she’s a former sous chef at Quince, the Michelin three-star restaurant in San Francisco.

— Janelle Bitker

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