Most Successfully Experimental Sushi 

Drunken Fish

Whether you like the American style of sushi -- what, you thought the Japanese invented the 49ers Roll? -- you'd be hard-pressed to find anyone taking our Maximum Extreme Challenge approach to raw fish quite as far as Drunken Fish. Barely anyone pays attention to its traditional one-roll, one-fish listings anymore. No, Drunken Fish's sushi chefs warm up with megamaki like the Rainbow Roll, a gorgeous five-fish construction as thick as your wrist. Then they get creative. Sprouts grow out of the Spicy Crunchy Roll, a big ol' crab roll snowed under with tempura bits and a spiral of Sriracha sauce. Volcano Rolls start from the same base, but pile on scallop, cream, and tobiko before hitting the broiler. And then there's our favorite, concept-wise: The all-green Shrek Roll, with a core of maguro and hamachi, a thick middle layer of white rice and black sesame seeds, and an outer coat of thinly sliced avocado, each slice crowned with wasabi tobiko and set on a swizzle of avocado mayonnaise. The only problem? Fitting a piece into your mouth without ruining your tablemates' appetites.

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2100 Ward St., Berkeley, 510-549-3486

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