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Chef Sarah Kirnon came to prominence at Front Porch, in the Mission in San Francisco, and more recently at Uptown Oakland’s Hibiscus, where she got raves for her brand of refined, Caribbean-inspired cooking — “California-Caribbean,” at least one critic called it. At her new solo venture, Miss Ollie’s, Kirnon eschews white linens and fussy plating to serve food that’s more soulful — and more affordable — than ever. Highlights on the menu, which changes daily, include ackee and salt fish — the classic Jamaican breakfast — and Barbados-style fish soup (served over a rich, creamy corn porridge). But the headliner is still Kirnon’s legendary fried chicken, which is skillet-fried to a perfectly crisp deep bronze, each piece a succinct and succulent testament to the power of brining and fresh herbs.

— Luke Tsai

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