Even in vegetable-crazy Northern California, a vegan's dining-out options are somewhat limited, and the number of places where a vegan can indulge in a big blowout meal without ever having to worry about a dish’s ingredient list, is even smaller. For about twenty years, Millennium was that special-occasion place for the plant eaters of San Francisco — and now, after the original restaurant lost its lease, chef Eric Tucker and GM Alison Bagby have set up shop in Rockridge. The new incarnation features a slightly scaled-back menu, but it’s same Millennium that longtime customers fell in love with. Tucker’s hearty, decadent food leans heavily on Asian and Latin flavors, and he knows how to wield the power of umami. Don’t miss the sesame- and arborio-crusted king trumpet mushrooms, which hit all of the same pleasure centers as a plate of fried calamari that you might eat at your neighborhood Thai joint.

— Luke Tsai

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