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Almost every dish in this place is packed with so much protein that you’re primed to pop up from your chair and hike from here to San Leandro. It’s that good, and yes: It’s a hole-in-the-wall. It’s about to be your favorite hole-in-the-wall, because dim sum is served here all day, every day — and because its menu sports 199 separate items denoting a whirlwind tour of regional and culinary styles, from rock-cod clay pot to spinach with duck eggs to shrimp in lobster sauce to happy-family tofu to dried-fish-and-peanut jook. And that’s not counting the 42 lunch specials, which include such rarities as ginger lamb, seaweed salad (as an entrée!), and lemon-grass pork chop. And that’s not counting a separate 57-item vegetarian menu, of which we the meatless need read only as far as faux-chicken drumsticks and faux-chicken wintermelon soup before swooning dead away. And that’s not counting daily specials. Or desserts.

Hours: Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Sat.-Sun. Noon-10 p.m.

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Price: $

Payment Type: MasterCard, Visa, cash, ATM/Debit

ParkingChoice: Street

ReservationsChoice: Accepted

Attire: casual

Entertainment: none

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