Lin Jia's Neutered Spice 

New Lakeshore eatery's attempts at high-brow Asian are noble but fall flat.

There's a gleam of the picturesque in Marcia Lam's culinary evolution. She's the adult child of Chinese immigrants, a fifteen-year veteran of her parents' greasy takeout restaurant in Hayward. Over the years, Lam grew conscious of food sourcing and health issues, absorbing…

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