Marcia Lam worked in her parents’ Chinese takeout restaurant in Hayward for fifteen years, biding her time until she could open her own shop using Mary’s chickens, Niman beef, organic produce, and no MSG. Lin Jia is the result, a Chinese restaurant with globetrotting influences from Japan, Korea, Vietnam, and Thailand. Everything is fresh and handsomely prepared, and you won’t feel the bloat of cheap takeout, but too-clean Lin Jia sometimes feels lacking in passion. Make sure to order the ethereal wonton soup and the Kou Rou, a deconstructed pork bun.

— Jesse Hirsch

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