For a dozen years, Ana Maria Campos ran the beloved Taqueria Campos out of a tiny orange cottage in the Fruitvale district. Last year, her nephew Nolberto Martinez Jr. took over, fixing up the place and changing the name. But Martinez Jr. kept the kitchen team on board and continued his aunt’s commitment to cooking everything from scratch. The menudo still draws hour-long waits on the weekends. The corn tortillas are still pressed by hand. And the pozole and birria remain among the best in town.

— Janelle Bitker


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