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Business at Koryo picks up just when other restaurateurs would be clearing up the tables around you and looking pointedly at the door. That’s because this jewel box of a restaurant is one of the best of the East Bay’s scant late-night eateries. By two in the morning you’d expect the cooks to get a little sloppy with the wakame scattered across the agedashi and start slicing their dwindling fish stocks super-thin, but no: It’s still all good.

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