Italian-American Charm and Garlicky Flavor Bombs at Trattoria La Siciliana 

Red sauce, by way of Sicily.

There's no shortage of good Italian restaurants in the Bay Area — of white-tablecloth showstoppers and ten-dollar-pasta shacks; of places specializing in salumi or pizza or animal innards; of devotees to hyper-local cuisine or purveyors of obscure regional dishes. It's an embarrassment…

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