At first glance, Hopscotch can seem like a weird combination of seemingly disparate elements: a retro '50s diner aesthetic, a scotch-centric bar program, and, most importantly, Chef Kyle Itani’s Northern California-inflected Asian fusion menu, which shares little in common with the heavy-handed old-school fusion cooking that was popular a decade ago. Instead, Itani creates dishes in which Japanese elements are incorporated with a dash of whimsy, but also with precision and restraint: duck-fat potato chips with yuzu aioli, pâté with “sauerkraut” made in a traditional Japanese pickle press, or a burger topped with griddled beef tongue. Meanwhile, despite the casual setting, the service — headed up by co-owner Jenny Schwarz — is some of the best and friendliest in town.

— Luke Tsai

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Price: $$-$$$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

Happy-hour drink specials daily from 3 to 5:30 p.m.

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