Part Hawaiian lunch-plate specialist, part showcase for the down-home art of the Asian Cajun seafood boil, Hang Ten Boiler is, in a certain sense, the “fusion-iest” restaurant in town. Here, two cobbled-together immigrant cuisines coexist in the most casual of settings — where utensils are strictly optional, and “dishware” doesn’t extend far beyond plastic bags and cardboard boxes. The crawfish (flown in from Louisiana daily), head-on shrimp, plump Manila clams, and whole Dungeness crabs are all fresh and fairly high-quality, and the signature “Hang Ten” sauce is an addictive slurry of garlic, butter, lemon juice, and Cajun spices — ideal for dipping. But while the shellfish is the main attraction, don’t sleep on the slow-braised Kalua pork lunch plate (a Hawaiian classic) or the cornmeal-battered fried catfish, which is pretty much perfect.

— Luke Tsai

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