Wednesday, November 8, 2006

Grease Trap: It's Official -- Organic is Dead

By John Birdsall
Wed, Nov 8, 2006 at 3:24 PM

Over at MeatHenge, Richmond blogger Biggles documents the last, absurd stop on the co-opted organic movement's death march before ending up on the shelves at Wal-Mart.

Sucky Home Life Squashes Grasshopper

Okay, so it's not all doing lines of blow on the prep table, barking at the sous chef, and slipping out the back door with a case of Syrah. The Chron's Inside Scoop offers a peek at chef burnout in news that Donald and Crossley Dellis, husband and wife chef-owners of Oakland's Grasshopper, are bailing to be home for dinner with their kids. Sounds like the Asian small-plates bistro will be morphing into a Mediterranean format by the end of the year under new owners Rich and Rebekah Wood. Stop in for tea-smoked duck breast while you still can.

Berkeley Woman Eats Pop-Tart, Feels Guilty

In the fall issue of Edible East Bay, a reader objected to Derrick Schneider's silly, worshipful history of Alice Waters and Berkeley's food revolution - it appeared in the summer issue. Schneider posited that Berkeley's Free Speech Movement led directly to the first warm goat cheese salad plated up at Chez Panisse. A reader writes in to chide Schneider for oversimplifying the Berkeley Food Revolution (his capitals, not ours). Schneider responds, but it only gets juicy when Edible East Bay copy editor Sarah Inez Levy pipes in about feeling guilty for scarfing a Pop-Tart in the Gourmet Ghetto. "Walking along the streets of Berkeley, Pop-Tart in belly, I felt dissatisfied and guilty - and it had nothing to do with the empty calories. I was feeling what the revolutionaries had thirty years ago: that food as a powerful symbol can affect emotions and therefore affect change." Kinda makes you hungry for a Pop-Tart, doesn't it?

Every Wednesday, Express restaurant critic John Birdsall samples the best and worst of the Bay Area's food pages.

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