Some nights, it seems as if all of Chinatown has descended on Gourmet Delight. The bustling restaurant specializes in inexpensive, fresh seafood, much of it swimming around in tanks until the Great Net from the Sky comes to collect it. Order the fancy stuff and you may be disappointed. The best of Gourmet Delight’s food is homey and simple: clams and black-bean sauce, stir-fried crab or lobster with garlic and scallions, platters of bright-green vegetables, and clay pots.

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Entertainment: Live fish tanks are better than a floor show, don’t you think?

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