In much of the US, Brazilian cuisine is synonymous with unlimited portions of spit-grilled steak. But Eli Nascimento wanted to create a hybridized, Italian-inspired take on the theme for his Old Oakland restaurant: part Brazilian steakhouse, part nod to another kind of all-you-can-eat restaurant, the galeteria, which was developed by the robust Italian community in southern Brazil. You’ll want to save plenty of stomach room for slices of picanha (top sirloin cap) and alcatra (top sirloin) that knife-wielding servers carve tableside.

— Luke Tsai

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