.Food & Drink

May 14, 2024

Swahili Spot Anchors in West Oakland

Priscilla Mkenda began serving East African dishes at a Lake Merritt food stand during the pandemic. “I used to cook some food, go with my tents and two tables,” she said. “Every day, my sales were increasing—slowly, slowly, slowly.” As she developed a supportive group of regular customers, Mkenda...
Dog-Friendly Dining and Cat Cafes in Honor of Pet Week
Apr 30, 2024

Dog-Friendly Dining and Cat Cafes in Honor of Pet Week

If one’s best buddy is a furry, ball-chasing bundle of energy commonly known as “my dog,” and one’s appetite leans to beer, burgers and beyond, the East Bay responds. Or let’s say a person wakes up one...
Willows & Pine Honors Oakland Family History
Apr 23, 2024

Willows & Pine Honors Oakland Family History

The name of Chef Michauxnée Olier’s restaurant, Willows & Pine, pays homage to her family’s history in Oakland. When she was growing up, her mother and grandmother worked at The Barn, which used to be on Pine...
New Pizzeria three.one four Opens in North Berkeley
Apr 16, 2024

New Pizzeria three.one four Opens in North Berkeley

The pizza recipes at North Berkeley’s three.one four pizzeria belong to a chef who lives in and runs a catering business in Los Angeles. Mario Vollera, along with a silent business partner and hospitality expert Brandon Wilson,...
Elsie's on Solano: Now Closed
Apr 9, 2024

Elsie’s on Solano: Now Closed

The following article was written after I interviewed Cash Caris on April 3. At the time, the chef sounded optimistic about Delirama’s reincarnation as Elsie’s on Solano. On Sunday night, Caris posted on Instagram that he would...
Flour Tortillas Star at Xulo Mexiterranean Popup
Apr 2, 2024

Flour Tortillas Star at Xulo Mexiterranean Popup

When I went to the Gilman Wine Block First Friday, the Xulo tortilla and taco stand flanked one of the festival’s outer edges. Even though the retro logo was emblazoned on an eye-catching overhead sign, Michael de...
Toriano Gordon Enters New Phase with 'Vegan Mob Cookbook'
Mar 26, 2024

Toriano Gordon Enters New Phase with ‘Vegan Mob Cookbook’

Toriano Gordon closed the Vegan Mob’s Oakland hub last September. Gordon refurbished the former Kwik Way with his brand’s distinctive color, a neon green that illuminates Lake Park Avenue day and night. The atomic-age carport is still...
Film Review: ‘Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros’
Mar 19, 2024

Film Review: ‘Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros’

In Frederick Wiseman’s 44th documentary, Menus-Plaisirs – Les Troisgros, no omniscient narrator appears on screen or via voiceover to introduce the characters. The four-hour film (!) begins with a medium shot of the Roanne train station, the...
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