Yup, that is an old Kentucky Fried Chicken, repainted periwinkle blue on the outside, its heat lamps and fryers replaced by stew pots and women patting out pupusas. El Tazumal puts Mexican dishes on its menu but actually excels in Salvadoran slow food — a stew called arroz aguado with pork and Central American greens, a ground beef and mint dish called salpicon, yummy iguana soup. Drink nutty Salvadoran-style horchata (rice milk) with your meal, and finish with a coconut-shell bowl of atol de elote, a warm, sweet corn porridge that dates back to pre-Colombian times.

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