It’s nothing against the new-school food trucks that have bolstered the Bay Area’s street food scene for the past six or seven years, but the best thing about this Oakland-based mobile pupuseria is its distinctly non-bougey, old-school ethic and how all of the dishes seem like things you’d be served in somebody’s grandmother’s kitchen — not off a truck. The fat, fluffy pupusas, which are hand-formed to order before griddling, come with a side of serrano-spiked curtido (a zippy, fermented cabbage slaw) and a little tub of no-joke house-made salsa. Other highlights include the bean soup — which is both richer and more intensely flavorful than you would anticipate from something made from such modest ingredients — and tender, jiggly Salvadoran-style chicken tamales.

— Luke Tsai

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