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Given how polished his thin-crust pies are, you’d never know Paul Manousos has zero experience as a pizzaiolo. Manousos turns out a short menu of pies that change with the seasons, cooked in a wood-burning oven. The style is a sort of New York-California hybrid — toppings that might be Venetian Sottocenere cheese and leeks, or house-made loukaniko sausage, Ligurian olives, and lemon zest, but applied with such a light hand they don’t overload Manousos’ thin, crisp, evenly browned crusts.

— John Birdsall


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