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This farmhouse-chic Thai restaurant in Oakland’s Montclair neighborhood is a fascinating experiment: On the one hand, it’s the kind of upscale Asian restaurant where the beef stock has been rebranded as “bone broth,” and where servers in Tommy Bahama shirts hold sparklers while they sing you “Happy Birthday.” On the other hand, while 85 percent of the menu is completely accessible to the average American diner, the other 15 percent consists of dishes that are unapologetically intense and “adventurous” — e.g., the gang tai pla, a fiery Southern Thai fish curry infused with the pungent flavors of a whole fermented mackerel and, most notably, the entrails of said mackerel. For those who are only moderately adventurous, Daughter Thai still has plenty to offer: a 24-hour beef noodle soup that features a mammoth bone-in short rib, and Southern Thai-style batter-fried chicken served with a curry dipping sauce and excellent, flaky roti.

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