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The focus of this fast-casual restaurant is khao mun gai, the Thai interpretation of Hainanese chicken rice. Here, the chef slowly poaches whole birds, removes the bones, and portions out a mix of dark and light meat for each order. The result is a dynamic mix of flavors and textures, all the while soft and silken. It’s served over rice cooked in chicken broth, along with cilantro, cucumbers, a funky fermented soybean sauce, and a side of hot chicken broth. The other dishes on Chick’n Rice’s short main menu are also worth ordering, particularly the pork, braised to a jammy softness with gelatinous skin.

— Janelle Bitker

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