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Thai House Express veterans Sangchai Vatanachai and Amnouy Manyvong set up here on International Boulevard in 2008, serving a mix of dishes from central Thailand and farther north. Ka moo — braised pork leg with five spice and sweet soy — should find a place on every carnivore’s table. Much of the rest of the menu is bright-tasting and easy to like, and above all accessible for non-Thais. The chicken larb, for instance, is a pile of perfumed ground meat that doesn’t challenge, and while chan pad poo (Dungeness crab noodles) might not be something you’d encounter in Thailand, if it tastes good, who cares?

— John Birdsall


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