Casa Orinda has been around for more than fifty years, and its decor recalls a time when ranches far outnumbered ranch homes in the region: yoke lamps, longhorn racks over the bar, wood tables branded with irons, not corporate logos. But the plain old American food it serves has been lightened to fit modern Californian tastes. Pastas, chicken, and veal now dominate the menu. Two out of five diners come for the crisp fried chicken, whose reputation has spread throughout the region.

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