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Meats cooked sous vide and a hemp-seed salad dressing are part of this easy, breezy fusion spot’s efforts to take traditional Cuban cuisine and, in chef Joe Kohn’s words, “bring it up a few notches.” Whether you wind up celebrating these liberties or giving them the side-eye will probably depend in part on how you feel about the mixing of savory and sweet — whether it be the vinegary-sweet tomato water that chases each bite of a shrimp cocktail or the strictly non-traditional forbidden black rice that accompanies the slow-roasted lechon asado. High points include the meats themselves — especially the pollo frito, which is cooked sous vide and then briefly skillet-fried — and desserts such as a banana bread pudding that’s as eggy and custardy as a flan.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., 4–10 p.m.; Sat. 5.–10 p.m.

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