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Cuban food is all too rare in the Bay Area, and Caña Café does it well, serving up Cuban sandwiches, fried chicken, and empanadas with equal aplomb. But veteran chef Diego Salinas has bounced around at high-end fusion restaurants, and at Caña Parlor he’s adding foams and sous-vide techniques to the pan-Latin fare. The resulting combination, of the light and airy daytime cafe’s authentic Cuban street food, and the nighttime parlor’s fancy fusion, is an interesting dichotomy. Both are good, but Salinas’ traditional street food is more consistently strong.

— Jesse Hirsch

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