For Bureau 510, the proprietors of Summer Summer Thai (the Thai restaurant down the street) brought on a fairly big-name New York transplant, Chef Edward Higgins, as a consultant to create a burger-centric menu with myriad international influences. Each beef patty — made with a Niman Ranch chuck-and-sirloin blend rated at a whopping 25-percent fat — is pre-cooked in a sous-vide water bath and then fired to order on the grill, yielding a perfectly pink-centered burger that earned high marks for its flavor, coarse texture, and hard sear. Aside from the burgers, many of the most interesting items have an Asian-fusion twist: beer-battered onion rings with a complex yellow-curry dipping sauce, or — best of all — a fried rock-shrimp patty that’s served on a crunchy, nutty toasted-rice “bun.”

— Luke Tsai

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