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The name alludes, rather obscurely, to a gas station and speakeasy operated by Prohibition-period moonshiners, as portrayed in the 2012 film Lawless. This indicates, in part, that Blackwater Station is more of a craft cocktail bar than anything else — the kind of place that makes an assortment of elixirs, tinctures, and sodas in-house, and serves booze-heavy concoctions with long lists of fancy ingredients. But that doesn’t mean the concise but muscular food menu isn’t worth seeking out. The best of chef Jonathan De La Torre’s New American small plates — such as the pork shoulder meatballs (served in a silky “brassicas bolognese”) or the slow-braised beef cheek (paired with polenta and a shishito pepper emulsion) — are the kind of homey, soulful dishes you wouldn’t expect to find at a cocktail bar with a modern, sophisticated ethos.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Sun., Tue.–Thu. 5–10 p.m.; Fri.–Sat. 5 p.m.–midnight

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Price: $$-$$$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

Reservations for parties of six or more only

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