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Best Vegetarian Food: A scrumptious and guilt-free Technicolor spread 


A warning to the militantly flesh-averse: This North Oakland Ethiopian restaurant does serve meat. Some of it even finds its way into the dining room raw, such as kitfo, a preparation that may give some carnivores pause, too. Don't let that concern you, oh tofu-and-brown-rice stoics, because a meal gleaned from Addis' sizable veggie column is like that moment in The Wizard of Oz when everything goes Technicolor. Ater kik is a split-pea stew turned daisy-button gold with turmeric, while gomen — braised collards— radiates plenty of rainbow brightness with flavor alone: a sherrylike nuttiness from the greens, punched up with herb oil. There's nothing subtle about telba fit fit, a fiercely tangy salad made with itty-bitty pieces of injera, Ethiopia's breadlike pancake of fermented teff-flour batter. Balance the telba's tang with alicha denich, a comforting stew of potatoes and supersoft carrots, spiked with sunny turmeric. Even omnivores won't notice the absence of meat.
(Sorry, no information is currently available for other years in this same award category.)


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