When chef-owner Michele Belotti talks about modernizing the traditional dishes of northern Italy, he’s usually talking about refinements to the cuisine that up the luxuriousness of old-time recipes while staying true to traditional flavors. This is perhaps best exemplified in the Rockridge restaurant’s signature item: the fresh pasta dough that Belotti makes exclusively with egg yolks — about twice as many as is traditional. The results speak for themselves: pasta that’s tender, ethereally light, and retains just the right amount of toothsome bite. If you only plan to order one dish, let it be the casoncelli, a kind of prosciutto- and pork shoulder-stuffed pasta made using Belotti’s mother’s recipe. But other pasta dishes are just as satisfying — say, the agnolotti di lidia (another meat-stuffed pasta, served in a rich beef reduction) or a spaghetti and burrata dish that eats like a caprese salad in pasta form.

— Luke Tsai


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