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Amid the sea of modern-looking cafes and upscale boutiques that populate today’s Uptown Oakland, Bay Fung Tong Seafood Tea House sticks out — for its weathered, Chinese-style facade and its affordable, old-school Cantonese cooking. Your best bets are the seafood dishes, including the restaurant’s signature “Bay Fung Tong style” (aka typhoon shelter style) crab — a Hong Kong specialty that features a whole batter-fried crab buried under a mound of crispy fried garlic, sliced chilies, fermented black beans, and, most surprisingly, some kind of pork that’s vaguely reminiscent of bulk Italian sausage. Deep-fried sand dab is another winner from the seafood section, and you’d be wise to round out your meal with an order of tong choy (water spinach) sautéed with fermented bean curd.

— Luke Tsai

Hours: Mon.–Fri. 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 5–9:30 p.m.

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Price: $$

Payment Type: Cash, all major credit cards

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